Wind turbines with their hands, the wheel of the motor

• alter induction motor by setting the rotor permanent neodymium magnets
• alter the generator from the vehicle on the permanent magnets, so get rid of the winding, which had to be well fed (for comparison, the efficiency of the generator with permanent magnets 0.8, similar to the field winding - 0,6).
• Find finished engine with constant, preferably neodymium, the magnets. Why neodymium, you ask, because the motors with ferrite magnets anymore. It's simple: almost all engines are designed with ferrite at high speeds, at least what I found - 1500 rev / min, 36 volts. That means - is complicated by the wind turbine gearbox design, which will reduce the overall efficiency of the entire product and complicate construction and operating costs, shorter continuous hemorrhagic.

• DC motors, a stator which is typically made of ferrite, and the rotor current is fed through brushes. As I write this, they are not very suitable for wind turbines, as ferrite magnets several times weaker than neodymium, and on the brushes will dissipate some of the precious energii. Takzhe brush - this is a weak point of these engines, they are constantly burn up, worn out, they need to change in general - I dismissed this option.
• AC motors represents stator windings and the rotor comprises pm. In industrial devaysakh found two of these engines:
  • in the washing machine with direct drive, but on further examination there were ferrite magnets
  • motor- bike wheel - in my view - ideal for homemade windmill. I chose wheel motor 500 watt, 48 volt, 360 rev / min, a motor-generator is a weak wind (1-2 m / s ), starting to charge the battery

• blades made ​​of wood - not bad, but labor-intensive to manufacture, maintenance (painting, varnishing )
• blades made ​​of composite materials ( fiberglass and epoxy ) - labor-intensive manufacturing
• blades from PVC pipe - easy to make, require no maintenance

Blade length of pipe approximately calculated as follows: blade length = diameter * 5 . You can certainly make and longer, but they will be very hard to curve in strong wind. Divide the circumference by the diameter of the pipe to the 4-D equal parts, then the length of the pipe is cut and you have a 4-D piece. Then, on the one end mark of 30-35 mm and draw a line to the other corner of the edge of the workpiece, cutting off the excess. All blade ready, with the rest done a same operation, and you get 4 beautiful blade. Then grind the corners for better aerodynamics.

Manufacturers blade clamping assembly ( Hub )

I produced it from the plate thickness 1.5 -2mm. Cut a circle and mark it into 5 equal parts. Drill the holes for the screws that will attach the blade to the hub and the wheel motor.

rotary mechanism and attachment for u

Комментарии - (8)

• Nick говорит:
  Спасибо за интересную статью. А как опыт эксплуатации?
  
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• Admin говорит:
  Ветряк отработал год. Сейчас снял на зиму, думаю переделать лопасти, потому что из пвх трубы на сильном ветру очень выгинаются. Новые лопасти думаю зделать из алюминиевой трубы
  
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• Nick говорит:
  А вид изделия в сборе за работой есть?
  
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  • Admin говорит:
    Єсть, на днях сфоткаю и загружу
    
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• Rudolf говорит:
  очень интересно, давно хотел попробовать сделать что-то подобное. Жаль что не дополнили в статью, как работает такой ветрогенератор, какой контроллер, инвертор Вы использовали
  
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• Mohsen говорит:
  Привет, я думаю, что стержень прикреплен к передней части турбины и закреплен к ней проводами, чтобы она не повредилась при сильном ветре.
  
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• Mohsen говорит:
  سلام ، به نظر من یک میله به جلوی توربین متصل و بوسیله سیم پره ها را به آن مهار کنید تا در باد شدید آسیب نبیند
  
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• Mohsen говорит:
  بعبارتی محور را به جلو ادامه دهید و از آن به هر یپره یک سیم مهار کنید
  
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